Sunday, July 3, 2016

Day 6 and 7: St Petersburg

Arrived in St Petersburg after a comfortable 4 hour train ride on a Sapsan (like a bullet train). Had expected to be met at the station...and after waiting for about 30 minutes we decided to find our own way to the hotel. Sounded an easy prospect....the reality was much harder. It was stinking hot outside and no obvious taxi rank. Asked about 5 taxis if they would take us and all said no. Finally a young guy helped us out. Arrived at our accomodation...a rezidence. Entered through inconspicuous wooden door...after being buzzed in...and nearly had a coronary. The place looked completely dilapidated and I thought that for the first time I had been jipped. An old caretaker that sits in a little class box and smokes all day indicated we had to go to level 3. Did this in the oldest 2 person lift I had ever seen. Still very worried we may not come out of this alive. Then buzzed in to the hotel...weirdly it starts on the 3rd floor. Again weird. Anyhow decided to risk life and limb and check in. Taken to our room...tiny, very old, very ugly decor, but appeared clean. Looked out the window however to the most amazing view. Priceless. The upside is that we can walk to nearly everything. So decided to stay. Interestingly this was close to $200 a night. Dumped our stuff and headed out to check the sites. Very, very hot. Stopped for a much needed beer after viewing an array of monuments,  the most notable being The Bronze Horseman which was near the Neva River. We walked past The Admiralty and strolled through Alexander Gardens before stumbling onto the most magnificent St Isaccs Cathedral. Didn't go in today, but will. Would love to go up the tower. It's about 300 steps...not sure how the knee would take it...it has done an average of 5-7 kms a day (sometimes more...so a bit sore).  As we walked along the river it got so hot we stopped for a beer in an open air cafe. Very nice. Refreshed we continued on to the Winter Palace...stunning which sits in the appropriately named Palace Square. Siting in the middle of this square is Alexander Column...about 42.5 meters tall. Before we knew it 3.5 hours had passed and it was getting close to dinner time...been eating at 9 ish as it is still so light, but today we were starving. Found a small underground cafe/restaurant around the corner. What a find. Delicious...smoked chicken legs, potato mash and we ordered beans and cauliflower. It was amazing. Back there tomorrow night for another dish.
Second day around St P...more promising with the weather...significantly cooler. In fact when we emerged outside at 9 ish there was a little chill in the air. Decided to head up the beautiful and trendy Nevesky Prospkt which is a street 20 meters from our 'hotel'. Walked past the Stroganoff Hotel, and stopped and delighted in the Kazan Cathedral. Entered for a sticky beak. It was really lovely. Saw the must see Church of the Saviour on Blood, where Tsar Alexander 3rd was assassinated. Lined up, but given how busy it was decided to return later in the day. Plus it really was looking like rain and we were getting cold...who would have thought. After making the decision to return to our hotel to get raincoats and some walmer clothes we headed to the House of Books...an amazing bookstore that was one of the first in Russia and dates back to 1909. Browsed for quite some time and bought a few note pads. Once changed and walmed up we continued on to the Anichkov Bridge and the 4 horsemen sculptures either side of the bridge after browsing through Gostiny Dvor...the world's first mall. Found by default the Faberge Museum and decided to check it out. After being given surgical foot coverings we walked up the red carpet into an amazing series of rooms and displays. The Faberge Museum has the worlds largest collection of works by Faberge and the eggs were fantastic, beautiful and delicate. I think I read that each one takes about a year to make. They are beautifully showcased in the Shuvalov Palace...each room was as amazing as the displays it housed. Heading towards St Michaels' Castle the heavens opened up and despite our coats we were drowned. Headed back to the Church of the Saviour of Spilled Blood...still a line..but we were already wet so lined up. Got tickets and entered. Really special. Returned home to dry off and rest. BR sourced a good latte and Russian donuts and a Bob Hope and Bing Crosby movie in the background. (in Russian).






























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